Saturday, April 20, 2013

Jordan day three

4/13/13

We got an early start this morning.  Immediately after breakfast we walked down to the site of Petra.  The walk through the entrance and up to the Treasury was an adventure in and of itself.  We passed an Indiana Jones shop, which reminded me of the cinematic significance of Petra, but the shop didn’t seem to have any great Indian Jones paraphernalia.  Beyond the point where an admission fee must be paid there was a winding road with tombs on either side.  As we walked I noticed that there were two roads, one for walking, and the other, separated by what seemed to be the base of a wall, contained different gravel and seemed to be used for riding donkeys/camels/horses.  I encountered my first Nabatean tomb at Petra on that road, although we weren’t actually in Petra proper yet. The design was quite exquisite and what I had heard about this lost city matched well with reality.  The road to Petra then continued on in between two tall uprising cliff faces, creating a relatively narrow passage.  This passage had small water channels carved into both sides of the walls.  These water channels were about elbow height.  When we finally reached the end of the passage, the treasury was standing before us, magnificently preserving a glimpse into the ancient world in a way that almost no other site does. 
            Once we were in the ancient city of Petra, the group began to split up and several of us climbed up to the high place, an area containing an altar used for ritual sacrifice.  The view from the top was truly something to take in.  We sat there for a while, resting from the hike up and discussing where to go next.  The path down from the high place was a little bit confusing.  We travelled in several direction before returning to a junction that we had previously passed by and getting down to the main part of the lower valley from there.  We ended up passing several water canals that appeared to link several fountains in a complex fashion.  So much thought and planning had to have been put into the building of this site.  We passed several ornate tombs descending into a wadi that carried us out into main valley.  There were also some caves that appeared to be living spaces, one of which had a pick-up truck parked inside as if it were a garage. 
            We had intended to climb up to a lookout point called the Monastery, but we had used up much of our four hours at the site and decided that it would be wise not to go so far off and miss the rendezvous time.  We explored almost half way up the ascent of the Monastery and around the Roman ruins before making our way back to the larger main corridor that led back to the Treasury and out to the exit. 
            After eating a refreshing lunch at a restaurant with a great view, we had a long and restful bus ride to Bozrah.  Bozrah was once an important Edomite city, surrounded on three sides with deep wadis, giving the site a sort of desert peninsula shape.  The drop from the city to the bottom of the wadis was quite dramatic, and we discussed the significance of the sites’ strategic advantages.  The tension that existed between the kingdom of Edom and the kingdom of Judea was largely focused on the territory of the Negev.  After the Babylonian exile, the Edomites were free to expand into the Negev.  In fact, several hundred years later they appear in the New Testament, known as Idumeans, inhabiting the Shephelah; some Idumeans even lived as far as Hebron.  The site of Bozrah was only slightly excavated and the overall impression was a very desolate.   

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