Monday, March 18, 2013

Shephelah, Negev, Dead Sea field study!


Day 1: Shephelah
It seems like many of the places and memories that I have of the Field Studies are almost being mixed together.  I have been trying to remember where we have been and what we have seen so far.  Today we went to Beth Shemesh, Azekah, Lachish, Ashkelon, and a site where we hiked partially into the Sorek wadi system.  We also had a small stop on the side of the road where some Roman pillars and a milestone marker had been found when digging up the ground to clear a path for the modern road that connected Jerusalem to Gaza. 
Being at Beth Shemesh and going over the story of Samson was so interesting.  It really brought a new dimension to my understanding of the story.  The added dimension wasn’t just seeing the land and having a backdrop in mind for the events, although that was very helpful.  The most illuminating part about standing at Beth Shemesh and seeing the land and hearing the story was having an understanding of the geographical function of the land and understanding the cultural tension between the Philistines and the Israelites.  I had heard that the Shephelah was an important point in the land, one filled with conflict, but I never really understood why until studying here at JUC.  Hearing that concept illustrated with Samson was perfect!
Another great illustration of how vital the Shephelah is was the story David and Goliath.  It certainly wasn’t a new story for me, but, again, there were aspects that I hadn’t been aware of before that really gave me a bigger idea of what was really going on.  It felt so surreal to be standing at Azekah and looking out over the field and general vicinity where these events took place.  I remember telling this story in Sunday School when I was helping out with the youth group back home.  I drew stick figures standing on two very simple hills.  It was all two dimensional, but now I have this very robust imagery and understanding of the Shephelah and the diagonal road that intersects and divides it into the lower coastal region to the west, and the inner region that begins to show more of the hilly topography to the east.
Seeing Lachish was both very exciting, but also a little bit disappointing.  I have seen pictures and models of what Lachish would have looked like before it was destroyed, but I didn’t really know how much of it would be left in the ruins and archaeological remains.  I was expecting there to be more remains.  I understand that Lachish was conquered by the Assyrians and later destroyed by Babylon, but I always hear about how that kind of devastation actually preserves a ton of material artifacts for archaeologists.  I suppose the expectations sabotaged my experience a little bit.  I am sure if I knew more about the site and the finds I would be overwhelmed with all that was found.  I remember reading one of the Lachish letters in a class and thinking that it was so haunting.  The letter mentioned something about the signal fires at Azekah having gone out.  The implication may have been that the Assyrians or the Babylonians, I can’t remember which, had reached Azekah and destroyed the city.  Being at Lachish and remembering this was quite an experience and connection with history.
Ashkelon was so huge! I was waiting all day to see what it would be like and I was blown away!  I feel so blessed to have been given the opportunity to participate in such a great dig at such a great site this coming summer!

Day 2: Negev
The field study today consisted of visiting Arad, Beer Sheba, Wadi Zin, Avdat, and Maktesh Rimon.  I have really been enjoying the multiple day field study, but I am sure it will still feel nice to be back at JUC, which pretty much feels like home now.  There was a lot of driving today.  I enjoyed it because I used the down time to reflect on past field studies and try to sort through the data in relevant ways.  I really want to digest the information and experiences I have had here and keep them in my memory.
On our first stop at Arad, I was looking forward to seeing the Judean Temple.  I had already read about it and thought about the implications, I just thought it would be really interesting to see it and get an impression of what the site was like in reality.  I remember being quite perplexed when I first read about the plurality of deity worship at this sort of secondary Judean temple.  It was also very interesting to see the Early Bronze Age remains, which were probably connected with the first Pharaoh in Egypt.  While we were at Arad we ran into another group.  I was a happily surprised to run into several friends from my home church in Wheaton!
            Beer Sheba was quite large in comparison to what I thought it might be.  I didn’t know too much about the archaeological remains at the site to be honest, but it was nice to be able to see so many four roomed houses.  There just seems to be a lot more here than at any other site that we have been to – at least the houses were more obvious and clearly visible. 
            The hike through wadi Zin was also a great experience.  There were so many people there that it was hard to feel like I could get lost. I think if I were wandering through that area alone, even if it was clear where I was supposed to go, I could have easily been able to feel the overwhelmingly vast and confusing nature of the desert wilderness.  Still, this was such an exciting and adventurous experience.  I wish the hike could have been longer!
            Avdat was a very interesting site.  I don’t know a whole lot about the Nabateans.  When I hear or read about them it is usually in conjunction with Petra or Herod the Great.  I find it quite interesting that they eventually became Christians, something I had never heard before today!  It is quite amazing to think that they could navigate the desert and take advantage of its difficult terrain in a way that they could run and maintain the spice trade route without having to form a large military.  It makes sense after thinking about it, but it is just so brilliant.  On the site I got to see most of the ruins in passing, but I actually had a lot of fun exploring the still buried remains in the caves.  Alyssa and I found a substantially large system of caves with mostly buried Nabatean ruins inside.  It was nice to get outside of the area that has already been excavated and made accessible via paths, and climb down some steep paths and crawl through tight spaces to find some of the more adventurous spots that are less seen.
            Our last stop of the day was at Maktesh Rimon, a huge crater in the desert.  Standing on top of the Superbowl, a great nickname for the site, and looking out at the wild expanse was inspiring.  It was a great place to ponder the magnificence of God.

Day 3: Dead Sea
            Today we traveled to Masada, En Gedi, Qumran, and a militarized zone.  There was a lot of free time to wander and reflect.  It really set this day apart from some of the other field study days in that I was able to really take in the information, absorb it, analyze it, and begin to make sense of it on site.  I often feel that I need to focus on taking notes, taking pictures, and retaining the brief impression that I have of any one particular site.  The analyzing and making sense of the data doesn’t usually begin until I have some time during the middle of the week to look back on the experience and the notes, as well as the pictures. 
Masada was massive!  The walk up the side of the complex was nice.  I really enjoy walking with Ben even though we take our time and fall behind everyone else.  I know it is difficult for him to do the climbs, but it is a good time to really take in all that is going on and get a few good pictures.  It has also been a good time to just hang out.  I often have to explain to my wife Elise that guys are action oriented; we can’t just spend time together, we have to be doing something.  Really, it could be anything, we just need to be doing something like watching sports or fixing cars or climbing up the side of Masada.  It was also nice that we were able to catch the details about the site without missing much.  Yigal Yadin was brilliant for running the archaeological dig on a volunteer basis, and the contribution of the reconstruction line is also quite helpful.  It is nice to see authentic ruins or remains of ancient cultures, but the partial reconstruction and the ability to see where the two meet is extremely helpful for understanding the larger structures.
            At En Gedi we had two stops: the first stop was on the edge of the Dead Sea.  I was a little bit concerned that the water would be too cold, although I would have still gone in, I simply couldn’t pass it up.  The water, however, was just fine.  It was such a strange sensation to float so effortlessly!  At one point I got some water in my eyes and it felt like my eyes were on fire.  Afterwards we ate lunch.  It was quite nice to have a mini BBQ by the Dead Sea.  The second stop was relatively close at the En Gedi spring.  I really enjoyed seeing the Ibex so close.  One of them came right up to me.  It is strange to think that this spring with living water flowing so abundantly exists in the middle of the desert wilderness. 
            Our next stop was Qumran.  My first impression wasn’t what I thought it was going to be.  It was surreal to see the caves at Qumran, though we could really only see them from far away.  The community living space was a little bit smaller than I thought it would be, but there were so many mikvaot!  When we arrived at the Scribes room I remembered hearing how the people in the community would spend a third of the night studying or writing or something.  It really evoked a sense of discipline, which, I suppose, is quite fitting in relation to some of the community aspects.  I also got to climb way up into a cave at Qumran – not one of the caves that contained scroll fragments, but a cave nonetheless! 
            Our last stop of the day was an out of the way militarized zone that used to be a restaurant.  It seemed like an odd spot to stop at.  In the past it seems like we have always stopped somewhere really nice and epic in the scope its history/scenery/importance.  After hearing about what it used to be and how that tied in with the current political situation, the scene was well set for the imagery of the Dead Sea, used in Ezekiel to convey the hope of a new creation.

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